Piazza Navona is Rome at its most breathtaking — a long, oval baroque piazza built on the foundations of the Emperor Domitian's stadium, still retaining its ancient shape after two thousand years. At its centre, Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi — the Fountain of the Four Rivers — erupts in marble drama: four giant gods representing the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges and the Río de la Plata, lit golden in the evening. The surrounding ochre palaces, the churches, the cobblestones — all of it glowing in the lamplight. This is the Rome people dream of.

At the heart of the piazza, Tre Scalini has been here since 1815 — and there is no better address in Rome. More than two centuries of welcoming the world to the most beautiful table in the Eternal City. In the 1950s and 60s it became the symbol of la dolce vita — the place where film stars, artists and intellectuals gathered to eat and be seen. Today it is still the restaurant of the piazza, still serving its legendary tartufo al cioccolato — the famous chocolate truffle ice cream it invented — still pouring the finest Roman wines, still presiding over the show with the authority of the truly irreplaceable.

To dine at Tre Scalini with Bernini's fountains ten metres from your table is not a restaurant dinner. It is a Roman evening — and there is nothing quite like it anywhere else on earth.